The Grants-to-Ghost Ranch Saga
Content First Appeared on The Trek
Leaving Grants wasn’t easy. I came down with what I can only describe as a stomach flu, which made hiking feel nearly impossible. On top of that, my backpack was wearing and breaking down my body. My shoes were also starting to wear down. By the end of the first day out of town, my feet were a mess of blisters. I had finally reached my limit. The part that made it worth it, however, was the view on top of the mesa overlooking Grants.
Image Source: Paige Combs, “On Top of Mesa,” May 2025.
The First Big Climb - Mt. Taylor
And yet, despite everything, I climbed Mt. Taylor, my first truly big ascent of the trail. Standing over 11,000 feet, it felt like a quiet, personal triumph. On the descent, we passed patches of snow that reminded us winter wasn’t quite done yet.
Image Source: Paige Combs, “Beginning of Mt. Taylor Climb,” May 2025.
Recovery and Trail Magic
The next few days brought shorter miles, around 15 to 16 per day, as I recovered and found a new rhythm. Trail magic from the local Indigenous community (cold Cokes, water, and snacks) lifted my spirits, and the terrain began to transform. Towering red granite and wide-open skies marked the approach to Cuba.
The day before our last climb into Cuba, we were greeted with additional trail magic from Camp Oasis. All you can eat food, snacks, water, pit toilets, tables, the works. It restored our spirits for the last chunk into town.
The most stunning climb yet came the next day. It was steep, nearly vertical at times. I had to throw my trekking poles ahead of me just to scramble up. The effort was worth it: sunlight poured through the trees, the air was crisp, and I felt joyfully, wholly alive. The descent into town was a slow, steady slide back to civilization.
Welcome to Cuba, New Mexico
Cuba welcomed us with warm food and kind faces. We took a zero, enjoyed some local coffee (plus a curious cat who supervised us), and shared dinner with friends.
I picked up a new $15 pair of shoes from Dollar General, received my new Gossamer Gear Mariposa pack, and for the first time in days. I felt human again. My stomach had finally settled.
A Climb and Snow-Dusted Meadows
The next morning, we hit the trail at 9 AM after coffee at Circle K and climbed out of Cuba into snowy, slushy fields. The temperature dropped fast, down to 26°F that night. We huddled around a fire, drying our socks and shoes. Snow tapped on the tent all night, and by morning, everything was frosted in white.
We spent the next day leapfrogging clouds. Sunlight teased us between cold, snowy gusts, and we stripped off and re-layered constantly.
Destination Santa Fe and Side Quest In Progress
By the time we hit the road near Ghost Ranch, Neapolitan and I decided to hitch into Santa Fe for food, warmth, and an essential REI stop. We both plan to return to those missed miles, but the break was needed before our newest adventure.
Now, reunited with friends and rested, we’re heading on a detour: a side quest to the Grand Canyon and Sedona as we wait for the Colorado snow to melt. The CDT may be our north star, but sometimes the beauty of this journey lies in the unexpected turns.
Reflections
Albert Einstein said,
“If you always do what you’ve always done, you’ll always get what you’ve always got”.
Stats in the Wilderness:
Temperature Range: 23°- 81°
General Location: Grants, New Mexico to Ghost Ranch Alternate
Indigenous Land: Pueblos & Núu-Agha-Tʉvʉ-Pʉ̱ (Ute)
Whose land am I on? Learn why it’s important to respect the land we travel on.
